While the braking system had been highly touted, there was much room for improvement.
Required A LOT of effort to stop, frankly I'm wondering what all the fuss was about.

First to recieve attention was the master cylinder mounting box and bias assbly.

Two Tilton 7/8" (22.23mm) master cylinders coupled to a 2 1/2"  Tilton Balance bar.

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The Problem

Much of the hardware is dedicated to keeping the bias bar in alignment
This arrangement with the old brake booster and related linkage allowed for quite a bit of energy robbing lateral movement of the bias bar, interference of the clevis rods with the bias tube.

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Solution?
Positive method of maintaining the alignment the balance bar.
Eliminate the non functioning brake booster, while providing a mounting point for the clutch MC and "hand throttle" cable.
Adjustable brake pedal height.
Oh, BTW this should cost less than $10, I'm broke. No welding.
 

So, crude as the existing box is, it should work.

I knew I couldn't weld a straight fitting any better than the last guy who did it, but with the drill press I had a good chance of drilling a straight hole. So I started looking around for things I could drill a hole in.......This plastic bar stock fit the bill perfectly. the tube for the bias bearing is about 1-3/16"OD, I had a 1-1/8 bit did some filing and then pressed the tube into place with a vise.

The rod at the front of the balance bar assembly facilitates linear movement, and provides a handy place for a return spring..A hard suspension bolt, smooth, cut down and rethreaded. ( Alfa, of course)

A rubber boot was salvaged from the old booster, the return springs are actually standard valve springs, inner and outer.
The adjustable rod to the brake arm was part of my spring compressor kit.

The original clevis rod was stripped from the booster, modified and threaded to accept the 3/8" rod from the balance bar assembly, mounting to the existing brake pedal arm.

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Remaining to do are the reinforcement for the top of the box, square the box,and heat shield for the MCs, bracket for the clutch MC, and for the hand throttle.

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While the pedal box is out lets........

Check for the notorious "clutch arm failure".... It did, and has been welded already.

Move the clutch pedal over to accommodate my big feet and boots.

Inspection of the clevis pin for the clutch master showed major wear, as did all my other spares.
Local "has everything" store had clevis pins in inch sizes, 3/8 being the next largest size to my metric pin.
I drilled out the clutch arm and clevis fork to fit.

Worn clutch clevis pins and eccentric brake pin.
 

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A couple good reasons as it turns out but, but it's better than it was. Right angles wherever possible using the existing box.
Now features a fitted bottom inside the base to rigidly hold square and clean up the appearance.
Brackets for the hand throttle and brake master.
Note the steel reinforcement bar over the actuation rod, slot and pin, to eliminate radial movement.
Seemingly important are the plastic washers which prevent the clevis' from the MC's from binding on the bearing sleeve (not required with the cockpit adjustment kit, but a serious issue of the previous incarnation)

Note the original bracket for the clutch master, carefully removed from the booster.
Simple "L" bracket for throttle.
I'm going to use coated headers and skip the heat shield, at least for now.

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It's not perfect, but I don't feel compelled to replace it anytime soon either. It will need some fine tuning such as spring pressure, travel.
It is simple, should be durable and most importantly should give consistent, repeatable operation.
It remains to be seen if different size (slightly smaller 13/16") MC's are desirable.
It would be better if the pedal box had studs to mount the bias box to, instead of bolts. (disassembly requires pulling the pedal box assbly, probably)

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Estimated cost for the project......
   'Bout 125.00 for two MC "kits" complete.
   'nother 50 or so for the bare bias and clevis assembly.
   the rest...... couldn't have been more than 40$
   Nuts and bolts, brackets from any hardware store.
   The Delrin or Nylon bar stock was from a plastics company "odds and ends" barrel.
   Both the plastic and moderately thin aluminum sheet are workable with woodworking tools. A drill press and miter saw helped do the job right.

Whatever that does, is still in place.
And because the rear brakes don't seem to be doing much I'm going to pull it.
I have a female union off an old Alfa that will work perfectly to connect the two lines together.

Front

JFZ "mini grand national" Aluminum, 4 piston  (1.375") on 3.5" mounting holes
These calipers bolt directly onto the existing spindle assbly and use two washers between the caliper and the mount holes to facilitate correct centering over disc.

"Nascar" 10.5" vented disks, 6 holes x 5 1/2"   (SierraPN 003-0520).
On custum aluminum hats. 4 x 108mm bolt pattern.1/2"x20 NF x 2.5" wheel studs.
Slightly SMALLER than stock dia. rotors. The pads do not fully engage the rotor.
The studs however didn't fit into the stock hub and so I drilled out the holes for the wheel studs to 5/8" so the hat would fit flush to the hub.

Slots for the discs are 21mm

Aluminum 4 piston "Mini Grand National" 1.5" pistons!!?? 3.5" mounting onto extended adaptor plate.
No marking cast into the body of the caliper, but look identicle to the JFZ

Probably stock FRONT discs (no inner drum for parking brake), drilled cooling holes.
Effective radius over stock? About 1.5" If those are about 10.5 then the old ones are about 9" or by the crudest of guesswork about 8 times more effective.

Slots for discs 20mm

Comments - thinking out loud - more research nessesary

It seems counter- intuitive that the larger piston calipers are installed on the back.
In fact with both MC's at 7/8", less force is transmitted to the rear given an equal amount of pressure applied to the pedal. Which explains in part, why the rear brakes werent doing much w/ the bias adjustment centered.

On the assumtion the the porportioning valve was designed for the stock calipers, it was removed.

Other issues are the fact the the "large" vented rotors in front are actually smaller than stock, the outside edges of the pad, not in contact w/ the rotor and not reaching far enough to the center. Nobody seems to make a 11' rotor and it will require new custom hats.
 

And the tremendous amount of effort it is to make the brakes do anything at all. With almost twice the piston area of the stock system it should be working like crazy.
This may be because of using two MC's instead of one.

Softer pads. It certainly acts like it's got the hardest pads known.
Smaller 13/16 MC's

A bigger budget would allow 15x6" wheels and allow a larger rotor in front for a similar increase of swept area as in the back.